Tidal

I think the best word to explain Venice is ‘Tidal’. Let me explain in a number of contexts.

Obviously Venice is located in an estuarine lagoon, nominally called a group of islands, in truth this city is a cluster of reinforced platforms that are built upon piles driven deep into the underlying mud. Already close to sea level, it relies on its waterways for the movement of nearly everything as the city grows nothing, farms nothing and produces little except an insatiable appetite for food, wine and stylish goods. The milkman and the garbage men have barges that weave among the canals daily, food and goods are transported this way as it is totally impractical to distribute this stuff any other way. As part of an estuary, fishing is big business, as such they are at pains to protect their waterways and have strict environmental enforced guidelines in place to ensure the quality of the water both in the canals and the lagoon more generally.

Venice, however, is in trouble. We see evidence of it all around us. During high tides (we have now seen a few of them this visit) lower areas are inundated by salt water that oozes from the cobbles. They use raised platforms in the worst effected areas to elevate pedestrians and stainless steel barriers at doors of buildings to stop the salty influx. Architecturally, Venice is unique. All buildings have an impervious “damp course” layer of marble which you can see clearly. In the past this layer has been well below ‘oyster level’ but things have changed. Above this is brick and stone which are porous and all being well this has worked well for centuries. But … rising sea levels and gentle sinking of the buildings mean that the damp course is often below water level, allowing salt water to rise in the porous layers above and this is disastrous. Brick buckles, flakes and disintegrates, other stonework expands, walls slump and shit happens.

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Volare And A Little Bit Doge-y

One of many reasons we chose this apartment is the fact that we are on a “block” that gondoliers use to cruise tourists around the canals. This leg they like the acoustics and much of the day we can hear guitar, singing, piano accordion and at 4pm some douche motors past with 80s Italopop blaring. There have been some lovely voices and music so far – we shall see if it grows tiring. Fortunately we are out most days. Venice has canals, right? Lots of them. Pedestrian walkways grid the same space and cross canals via bridges, right? Lots of bridges.

Easter Sunday we were up early to head over to the Doge’s Palace for a look around. Like so many official buildings, it has a number of sides. The regal side is plush, opulent and so burdened with lavish artwork as to almost seem grotesque by today’s standards.

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Return to Venice

With work over, the agonising wait to leave for holidays began. We had done a ‘test pack’ then reasoned that it made no sense to remove everything again so stayed packed from Wednesday eve. Our run was a little rushed at the end (partly because we were previously so organised) but we got to the airport in plenty of time and amused our son, our chauffeur, with little panics.I want to pretend that long haul (14 hours first leg) flight is nice. We flew Emirates so, unusually, had adequate leg room, but being strapped into a chair for that period of time is an exercise in managed misery, punctuated by increasingly confusing combinations of food and various bit of us going to sleep. Neither of us actually slept however so arrived bleary in Dubai in time for coffee/tea and cake.

Another 6 hour leg and we were at Venice International Airport in pouring rain. We then stood for what has been so far the most exhausting thing we have done – waiting in a ziggy zaggy snake queue to get through passport control. The nature of a ziggy zaggy queue is that you visit, then repeatedly revisit people with bad body odour as you progress. Helpfully it seemed the airport did not put on the aircon so that was a special game of guess that smell – over an hour of queuing and we were miraculously reunited with our luggage and off to find a water bus. Fortunately our time in the queue gave the weather time to clear up and it had stopped raining to reveal an overcast crisp afternoon.

For over a year Jo (and to a lesser degree me) have planned a return to Europe and we both agreed that our time in Venice was way to short last time. 2 days was nowhere near enough time to fully explore the city so we planned this return. Read more »

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