Across to Albany, up to Hyden then Home

After our morning among the giant Tingle trees, we began the journey east towards Albany. We have gotten used to the large distances between centres in WA, so broke the trip up into manageable chunks, with either tea breaks, wee breaks or scenery stops as driving tired is nobody’s idea of a good time.

Our first scenery stop was Greens Pool – a sheltered inlet on the coast that has a lovely beach beside a rocky headland. Huge granite boulders and rock shelves protrude out into the wild southern ocean seas and the water looked lovely but cold. I can imagine this area is popular in the summer months because it offers sheltered waters ideal for swimming and snorkeling – only the brave wetsuited looneys were in the water today. We rock-hopped around the headland with the hope of seeing Elephant rocks, but they were inaccessible due to pathway redevelopment.

We then motored towards Torndirrup National Park and explored the coastal features there – again huge granite headlands cracked and carved by the pounding surf into “The Gap” – a developing channel inland that surf and surge pound relentlessly, sending sheets of salt spray everywhere. We then walked around to “Natural Bridge”, a span of rock that has been undercut by the ocean. So spectacular as the waves crash and boom underneath, judging by the cracks in the “bridge”, this too will crumble with time. We have been impressed by the rugged coastlines, with such variety to explore.

We then drove to “The Blowholes”, and rock-hopped another rugged stretch of coastline, in this case the waves are in the process of undercutting the rocky coastline. When large waves come in they crash under the lip of the stone and there is a huge compression noise as salt spray gushes out of the small opening further up the rock platform. The noise and feeling of the sound was deep and angry, all very impressive. We drove to Stony Hill and walked to the top – this area was once a lookout post during the war, remnants of the fixtures and placement were still visible. From atop the hill we got magnificent 360 degree views of the surrounding area.

Suitably rested and fresh aired out, we popped back in 13boop and headed into Albany to a small apartment accommodation to unpack, reorganise and rest before a fabulous Steak dinner at Rustlers Steak House. It was late, we were tired and we had a good night’s sleep.

Next day we were up and out doing some exploring the township of Albany. It was a grey day, a little cold and windy but we did some of the public art trail around the city centre. I am not sure I like the town layout – they have opted for a bunch of divided roads, one way streets and waaaay too many roundabouts – driving around was confusing. We then drove to the Museum of the Great Southern.

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Big Trees of Southern Western Australia

Up, packed and out, leaving Margaret River and heading east. Our first stop was Kondil Wildflower Park. We knew we had a day of driving ahead and knew the circuit walk was just a bit long, so decided to walk in for about 1/2 an hour, then return. As it turned out this gave us a window to fine a bunch of new wildflowers not yet encountered and some favs, including Cowslip and Greenhood orchids, probably the best specimens encountered so far.

We then headed to Nannup on what was becoming a warm sunny day (such a nice change from the cold winds of the west coast). We stopped for a bathroom break then headed to a cafe, Jo had an iced coffee and I had a really good cup of tea, nice to see some places can do it. We were a bit parched having made the mistake of not bringing enough water with us – lesson learned.

We headed to Bridgetown Jarrah Park, and began the process of learning the differences between the “big 3” tree types of the area – Jarrah, Marri and Karri. They grow them BIG, straight and tall down this way and we were keen to see good examples of each. We took the Shield Tree trail, spotting Marri and Jarrah quite expertly, – the shield tree was a scarred Marri tree where a past indigenous person removed a shield-sized chunk from the trunk – all very interesting.

We then headed to The Four Aces, an odd occurrence of 4 huge Karri trees, all the same age, all growing in a row. It is conjectured they all sprung up in the ashes of an older Karri tree after a bushfire, being enriched by the ashy soil. The mighty Karri trees are just so elegant, Eucalyptus diversicolour- the stems are grey with patches of other colours, the foliage is also multicoloured. They grow straight and so tall, very distinctive.

We drove to One Tree Bridge … well, rather the remains of it, an ingenious solution to the “we need a bridge here” problem where a farmer felled a huge Marri tree across the river and then built a vehicular platform on the trunk. There have been 3 generations of bridges since and the original one tree bridge is still recognisable, although dragged to a reserve beside the new bridge.

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Margaret River and Surrounds [tldr]

Our home base in Margaret River is a lovely, spacious and modern home deep in wooded suburbia. Surrounded by large trees, teeming with wildlife, we are greeted by “our” flock of Ringnecked Parrots and wood pigeons in the morning and afternoon, and we even startled a rabbit on the front lawn coming home one evening.

Our first day’s explore of the region saw us heading north along the coast, with a visit to Canal Rock first. The coastline here is rugged and battered by rough seas. Canal Rock is a fascinating bit of geography, where the sedimentary layers have been tilted vertically, allowing the pounding ocean to cleave deep canyons (or canals) between them. The seas boil and crash and the currents are treacherous. There was a raised walkway across some of it, we also walked out onto a low jetty and were lucky not to get wet from the rough surf surging around us.

We had a spectacular rock hop to see the sights, then headed further north towards Sugarloaf Rock. Another ragged prominent weathered peak with boiling ocean around it, so spectacular.

We were heading towards Cape Naturaliste, as we had a lighthouse tour booked. We toured the museum and was really impressed with the way they depicted the lighthouse history and operations as a series of personal stories recounted as remembrance of past keepers and family members. The whole experience, including the moving shipwreck movie, were in the same artistic style – very well presented.

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