I put forward the suggestion that I was happy to fill one with origami and the idea took hold.
Stepping back I am struck by a couple of things – (1) how amazing some of the models are (testament to the brilliance of the designers); (2) how much time that tiny collection of models represents (testament to my patience, insanity or both); and (3) I made them.
I hope the kids realize that patience and skill is developmental – passion is an energy that can be harnessed to make great beauty and paper is not “just paper”
Osteichthyes or BONY fish appear from fossil evidence as far back as 420 million years ago when they appear to have differentiated from cartilaginous fishy things. Fossil records are sketchy but shapes and morphologies are visible in traces in very ancient rocks.
This odd origami attempts to hint at the faint fossil traces left in a rock of a conventional bony fish and it does a pretty good job for such a simple fold. … continue reading.
My heuristic is that we do not get mail on Fridays – not sure it is always true but mostly. Last Friday I therefore did not check the mailbox. Sunday I discovered my Tanteidan had been delivered on Friday and I had left it for nearly 2 days before opening it.
I am old enough to remember when a folk singer named Ross Ryan released a campy song about flying horses, and given that is an ear-worm of a song and it has just turned “Year of the Horse” for Chinese New Year, I thought it was an omen on what next to fold:
Early morning catching up on Facebook, I saw a friend had posted a link to a Youtube clip of a woven ring:
I took 8 11cm squares (left-overs from the torus project) and split them into quarter strips (making a total of 32 strips of paper), then folded each strip in half longways then in half shortways – nice easy folding.
I chose 4 colours and just kept to a simple colour schedule and before long had run out of paper. Joining the two ends was easy – the method is repetitive so it is just a matter of working the free ends into the existing pattern.
The result is lovely, was simple and I can see LOTS of uses for such a sturdy (it structurally is really strong) ring. I might experiment with longer strips to see if the band is widenable. I am sure I have seen something similar done with flax or palm fronds whilst green – it has a basket weave feel.
I must, however, get to folding a horse…
Much of Origami is algorithmic (algorithm = procedural solution to a problem). A rabbit ear is an algorithm, one knows how to fold it on a corner – double rabbit ear is the same solution, folded two simultaneously. Petal fold is also a standard maneuver which got me thinking of the Sato Rose algorithm.
I like this algorithm particularly because of the free-form nature of much of the folding, and the way it seems to “fit” a pentagon. I decided to use the same folding algorithm but try it with other regular polygons – I tried triangle(3), square(4), pentagon(5), hexagon(6), heptagon(7), octagon(8), nonagon(9) but gave up on the decagon(10).
The algorithm involves “nearly” bisecting each vertex to form an echo shape at the centre of the sheet – you then halve that internal echo to create a slightly offset echo and use that as the basis of a “kawasaki twist”
All shapes are NOT created equal for this algorithm – although you CAN use other polygons, each one has different effects on the resultant bloom shape.
The LOWER the number of vertices, the LARGER the outer 2 petal layers are (these are the ones that receive most modelling treatment and hence can effect the overall “rosy-ness” of the flower) and the FLATTER and TIGHTER the inner bud is. You can see that the TRIANGLE has huge outer petals.
As the number of vertices increases the flower centre protrudes and is MUCH more difficult to make tight and compact so gapes, the outer petals shrink and the bloom becomes (to my eye at least) less beautiful.
I think there is a reason the PENTAGON works best, and am sure there is mathematics to back up my gut feeling (although that maths is beyond me at the moment). The Pentagon, to me, provides the ideal ratio of outer petal size to inner bud, but this has been an interesting investigation as I am sure I was not aware of the dynamics of the fold nor the effects the parameters (in this case the number of vertices) had on the result.
The idea is to take heavy paper, too thick to fold conventionally (it would crack, split and otherwise be finger-bruisingly impossible to sculpt) and apply WATER to it before coaxing it into shape.
I used watercolour cartridge (27cm square) – a thick board-like paper that snaps when bent dry. Using a damp rag, I applied water to front and back and immediately the sheet transformed into this malleable leather-like slab.
I think the trick is to know how the model goes first (oops, forgot that step) and fold quickly and definitely – changing your mind about where creases go is problematic but the paper is still forgiving.
When the paper dries it keeps the shape you managed to mould into it – as it dries you can touch up and improve on shapes that collapse when really wet, a LOT like sculpture. the result is not perfect – I should have practiced the fold first, “Owl” by Hoang Tien Quyet is a deceivingly simple model that is figuratively owl-like.
I have learned that this technique deserves more experimentation and requires a special sort of concentration and a very gentle touch as wet paper has no tensile strength. You need to look forward to the final form rather than concentrating too much on pre-creasing or sharpness, but am happy with my first go at it.
I want to tell you this is the first time I have folded this – in truth this is the first fold of this design that I am happy to publish – the other THREE times resulted in a scrumpled up mess in the bin. I have no “development photos” because I was not convinced it was not going to fail again. Soz.
Definitely a “horn-back” (Potter geeks rejoice), the central back horn is the middle of the page, 4 feet with toes (you can sort of see them), lovely wings, tail and a confusing head.
I am happy not to say I have managed to complete this model – the paper indeed helped as some of the collapses and manipulations do not work with thicker paper. Models where toes are formed from within the sheet (as opposed to from edges) are a nightmare in pleat management and accuracy if they are to work at all.
I am enjoying my experiments with double tissue. The paper was thin, crisp and strong. Because it is so busy (the pattern is distracting), laying creases in it is troublesome – the paper takes the creases really well (even ignoring the imperfections and wrinkles that result from the stretching/brush work in making it) BUT you cannot then SEE then – problematic when pre-creasing as things like REFERENCE points vanish midst the pattern – I found natural light was not enough and needed to work under a reading light also. the back/horn collapse is complicated – a “do this all at once” move that took me ages to line up and then it just sort of happened which was nice.
Having made some “double tissue“, I was itching to see how it took folds and I remembered a green thing I had folded way back as part of the 365 project – Robert Lang’s Green Tree Frog. My first attempt was small, white and not very detailed so I thought it might be fun to torture some double tissue with that design.
I found some bargain animal-print tissue whilst looking on a whim in a “Crazy Clarks” wrapping section ($1.50 for 10 sheets 50x70cm), then went to the newsagent and purchased a packet of “Hallmark” brand tissue ($2 for 3 sheets 50x70cm) – both ends of the tissue paper spectrum I guessed.
Armed with some freshly congealed Methyl Cellulose, mixed to “stale egg white” consistency (so runny but goopy and slimy), a soft paintbrush (I use a 2″ natural bristle) and a wet rag to “prime the window” I began.
I decided to re-try out big sliding glass door because, well, it is large, the glass is smooth and it is boiling outside so the glass is hot and might make the drying time less?
Problem #1 – tissue is packed folded, quite aggressively it turns out, getting it flat is something I will spend more time on next attempt. Wiping the window with a wet cloth made posting the first sheet of tissue quite easy, and I was able to get it fairly flat before attempting to place the second sheet on and gooping the paper so the MC soaks through both layers and laminates them.
In all honesty I needed 2 extra sets of arms to make this technique easy – gravity is an issue and in the end both attempts misaligned a little – not a great issue as I will need to trim them square before folding anyway.
The Hallmark tissue, like the cheaper patterned tissue did not bleed – this in all honestly surprised me – I was expecting paper fibre and colour to clag up the brush (like the rice paper did) but this did not happen. I wonder if the cheaper plain coloured tissue paper would be the same, I suspect not).
I laminated 2 green sheets together and although there are some wrinkles and sheet misalignment I should be able to get a reasonably large square from the “good” part of the sheet. I laminated 2 patterned sheets (which were a lively black/grey on the reverse) with the pattern outermost – making a “sandwich” with pattern both sides which should be interesting, it looks a little like leather and has shiny and plain sides.
I am getting better with the technique, doing it vertically however is problematic as you need an extra set of arms to cope with gravity issues.
Cut it into a square (because, even though it is sold as a square, rarely have I found it so.
This was WTF (What’s That Fold?) # 21 – how did you go at guessing what it was?