The commute to Kalbarri from Cervantes is nearly 400km. A lot by normal standards, but not for WA. The state, like the island continent is vast and the distances between centres can be daunting. Fortunately our hire car, Beige Fury, is comfortable and fairly zips along. The drive was done in stages.
We stopped in a park by the ocean in Dynamite Bay for lunch and a loo break. It seems the coast line is pockmarked with little inlets and bays – safe anchorages now but it was not clearly always so. Coastal towns all along the WA coastline have history of shipwrecks and you can see why with the often wild and woolly seas battering the coast.
Stopping every hundred km or so to stretch legs, empty bladder etc is always part of the plan. We got tea/coffee in Dynamite Bay also from the cafe there – frankly the best cup of tea since we arrived in the west. It is fascinating how little baristas know about making tea – this cup was made by a self-confessed tea drinker.
We stopped to fill up with petrol just outside Geraldton, but seem to be getting good economy from Beige Fury. We have some big distances to cover on this trip, but are finding the scenery interesting, varied, and the roads big, wide, well maintained and largely empty, making the driving easier. The car has a load of “smart” features, and I am getting used to them. We are about to embark on the purchase of a new car, so it is interesting what modern cars can do nowadays.
In the Pink
Close to Kalbarri is a famous “pink lake” called Hutt Lagoon. I did not really know what to expect but was curious enough to want to see it. Apparently when the salinity is high, there is loads of sunshine, a brown algae gloom that makes keratin (an orange compound) and a bloom of red bacteria you get the necessary conditions for a pink lake. The water was cloudy and bright pink – much like it would look if you poured strawberry milk into a bath – visually striking and so weird.
We spent a little time at a lookout above the lake, I walked down to the waters edge but resisted the urge to wet my feet in the “water”. Looking out across the lake you get an almost abstract picture as the pink fades to grey, transitions to green foliage then sky. It reminded me of the colour field gradients of Mark Rothko.
Arriving, finally, in Kalbarri, we headed for the local IGA to do some provisioning to top up our travelling pantry then checked into our AirB&B – an amazing top floor of a huge house called “Sunset Lodge”. We were able to witness our second sunset over Indian Ocean from every room of the place. So very well appointed, spacious and should be a great base for the next few days. Jo really can pick them. Dinner prep, settle in, welcome night sleep after a long day on the road.
Pelican Feeding
Next morning we went to a local cafe for a cooked breakfast and then headed over the a shade structure near the shore of the bay with a growing crowd. Every day volunteers come at around 9am to feed the pelicans. This morning a small group of 4, one large male and 3 females of varying ages. The volunteer explained that often there are many more birds, a bit about why they do it (mostly healthy monitoring) and then proceeded to toss fish and get assembled kids to help.
Pelicans are lovely to look at, but can be a touch dangerous, with a sharp hook on the ends of their bills. It was interesting watching the pecking order assert itself in the group, with the young but bossy male making himself the centre of attention. After the fish were gone, the birds lost interest and we walked back to our digs, gathered gear and set off to explore the coastal cliffs and rugged coastline just south of Kalbarri.
Rugged Coastlines
All part of Kalbarri National Park, there is a series of turnoffs from the highway leading to car parks and info boards explaining large coastal features.
We visited Natural bridge, a chunk of promontory with significant undercut from the pounding turquoise ocean. The erosion had cut a tunnel through to the other side. Quite spectacular also the scale of the cliffs, my first look over the edge got me woozy to be honest.
From natural bridge we chose to walk the blustery cliff top path to Castle Cove and Island rock, both huge erosion features. Island Rock is reminiscent of one of the 12 Apostles. We then drove to see Shell House, Grandstand, Eagle Gorge and Pot Alley. Erosion on this scale takes eons, testament to the brutality of the coastline.
Exploring the Murchison River Gorges
One of the defining geographical features is the serpentine Murchison River that meets the sea at Kalbarri. Inland, the river has carved huge and spectacular gorges through the strata. Fortunately as part of the Kalbarri National Park you can get close and personal with these gorges.
We decided to explore Natures Window and the nearby Skywalk. A short drive (20ish k) out of town, you turn off the highway into the National Park, pass a pay station (Jo purchased a park pass that will do all but Shark Bay) so we were good to go.
The trek to Natures Window was steep clamber and involved a tall set of stairs and some fairly hairy rock-hopping on the sides of the gorge wall to get to a window-like gap in the stone. The Murchison lazily meanders through the gorges below – all very spectacular. I am so glad we remembered our walking poles as they really help with balance when climbing down particularly.
The views were awesome, the scale breaks your brain a little bit. After returning from Natures Window we then set off for the Skywalk. Protruding off the top of plateau, over the gorge are two massive steel viewing platforms. I do not normally get freaked out by heights but must admit to initially being woozy when first looking over the sheer drop, but that was overtaken by awe and wonder of the scale and majesty of the landscape
By now we were tired and a little cooked, the days are warm and you use a lot of oomph climbing, so treated ourselves to an icypole which was welcome respite that helped lower our core temps. We then returned to home base via Meanarra Hill lookout tired but satisfied after a spectacular day seeing some of the sights. The Murchison is such a big part of the landscape here, we have more exploring further afield after our rest day tomorrow.
Leaving Kalbarri on route to Denham (our most northerly stay) we got to say goodbye to the Murchison River by visiting Hawks Head lookout then Ross Graham lookout. It is clear the gorge complex for this mighty river is extensive and so twisty.
On Highway 1, heading north we finally crossed the Murchison River, turned into the rest area beside the bridge for a bladder break then noticed the two generations of bridges that span it.
Onward northbound.