After our late checkout from the winery cottage, we motored out to have morning tea at Champagne and Gumboots gluten free cafe. What a gem it was, shame it is closing soon. We then went to a local shopping centre for provisions before heading out bush.
We drove out to John Forrest Park with the aim to do Glen Brook Walk. The signposts for the bushwalks here were being reworked so we got a little lost, but did find other wildflowers we have not yet seen and the walk was pleasant.
After the walk we stopped to have lunch, and had to contend with a cheeky uninvited guest.
On the way to the airport we refuelled Beige Fury for the last time and then returned her to the hire car place, then Uber’d to our apartment in Hay Street, East Perth.
After settling in, we did a provisions run to IGA and BWS, before making dinner and a welcome rest after a long day.
Arty Farty
Next morning we were up and ready to explore. We took a Red Cat (one of the many free inner city bus services) to Hay St Mall, dropped quickly into Kmart to buy kitchen implements (as oddly we found none in the apartment, bar a potato masher), then on to the iCity visitor kiosk for walking tour registration. Jenny, our guide, took us to the major landmarks around the inner city, was very informative and good humoured- volunteers are amazing. We wanted to feel more comfortable in this strange city, the tour really helped us get our bearings.
The tour ended down near the docks, so we stopped for a cup of tea at a cafe we would be coming back to for breakfast, before wending our way back up to Yagan Square and The Shoe Bar, next to the new Edith Cowan University’s inner city campus for lunch.
The weather closed in and after lunch we walked to PICA ( Perth Institute of Contemporary Arts ) in rain, and explored final year tertiary students artworks.
Fairly underwhelmed, we then walked to AGWA (Art Gallery of WA) to explore (and it was nice to get out of the rain)
There was lots of historical artwork on show but some contemporary collections on show also. We explored the current portfolio of Stormie Mills, a street artist we have seen subsequently out in live street art. Very distinctive gothic style, fabulous.
We knew there was a state-wide showcase of artwork from current Year 12 students called “The West Australian Pulse”, so were keen to check it out – boy were we glad we did!
So much on display, such artistry, so impressive. (We cheekily thought the tertiary students should come see how art works).
When finally full of kulture, it was a quick walk to a Red Cat stop, home and time for a collapse – another day where we certainly got our steps in.
Next morning we were up and out, Red Cat to the mall then a walk down Barracks street to the ferry terminal and cafe for breakfast. The weather was cold and blustery, with showers so it was nice to warm up with a cooked breakfast and cup of tea.
On the orientation walk we had seen nearby Perth’s oldest building, so we decided to explore it. Turns out it was the original court house, part of which had been set up as a museum. The info presented was interesting and at times confrontational. Old laws made by bossy men about women, children and indigenous peoples are so often historically WTAF?
We had booked to visit the Bell Tower – a fabulously modern building housing the complete set of historic bells from London’s St. Martin-in-the-Fields in Trafalgar Square. They were going to be melted down in a church refurb but Perth made an offer and now own them. We toured the tower, saw bells of all sizes and types and were present during the ringing of the ginormous ANZAC Bell, followed by the St Martin’s bells getting their midday Thursday workout, pulled by a group of 14 volunteers. All very fascinating (thank goodness the viewing platforms were double glazed- even then the sound was loud).
Fully rung-out, we caught a Blue Cat to the WA Museum Boola Bardip for a bit of an explore. There is lots to see here, so we focussed on only a few displays.
On advice we headed to level 1 first and worked our way through the “Reflections” exhibit that focused on Australian cultural diversity and society – a very dense collection of old and newly old memorabilia, artefacts and powerful stories of people living their life in oz. We worked our way around to Otto, the Blue Whale (an unimaginably big critter, based on the skeleton at least).
We then walked around the “Wildlife” display, an immersive and interactive experience all about native flora and fauna – all very interesting. We finished by looking at the Rio Tinto “Innovations” exhibit, but it seemed much more general, and a bit of a PR exercise for a mining giant. There is lots more to explore, and with our pass we can visit again if we have time.
Satisfied, tired, bus and home. We are discovering that our apartment is very warm and misleading. It gets sun most of the day so remains warm. I tried standing on the balcony to “test” temperatures when trying to decide what to wear, this does not work because it is also not on the windy side of the building. We are learning to trust BOM advice as a better indicator. That said, the days are lovely when the wind drops and the sun comes out.
Freo Taster
After a welcome rest, and a sleep in, we were up, breakfasted and off towards Barracks Street Wharf via the river path. The sun was out, the wind lazy but it was a lovely walk along the Swan.
We had passage booked on the Captain Cook ferry to Fremantle for a brief reconnaissance and orientation.
On arrival at Freo (this is what the locals call it), we Uber’d to the Fremantle Arts Centre. So begins a cautionary tale: trying to navigate their website to see what we could see there led us to believe there was lots publically open. When we arrived, we found the majority of the vast old building complex was studios for artists in residence, not publicly accessible, which was a bit of a disappointment.
We did look around the open galleries, and some of the modern art was interesting, some I did not really get (and the artist didactic did not really help – loads of flowery but seemingly unrelated words). It would, however, be a pretty great place for an artist residency for anyone looking for such.
We walked down towards central Fremantle, past CBC (a private boys college the same flavour as the one I used to work at), and into the Mall. We were looking for a cafe and treats and lucked across the fabulously quirky “Aunt Lucy’s Cakery”. The cake cabinet was brimming with home-made treats, loads of GFF options. Jo has the Mandarin and Hazelnut cake, I had a piece of damn fine cherry pie. Teapots, loose leaf tea and china tea cups and well made coffee, we were impressed.
Suitably refreshed and toileted we wended our way back towards the ferry terminal via a number of quirky shops. The bulk foods providore had an amazing range of flours, fruits and other ingredients in “scoop yourself” barrels, plus an exotic range of veggies, spices, teas and the like. The Japanese nicknack shop was fun also, and a well stocked Mediterranean delicatessen to boot. Loads more to explore, we now have our bearings for the next visit.
The ferry ride back to Perth was relaxing, beer o’clock as the sun was setting, perfect. It was a brisk walk back home via IGA, but a day well spent.
…more to come (good work if you got this far)