Belem – Lisboa

Armed with timed-entry tickets and a bit of luck we readied fairly early and then headed down the hill to the bus stop near the metro station closest to us, looking for a ride further towards the ocean, to a place called Belem.

A modern tram (15E) arrived, we had expected a bus or older rattle box, but because it was not crowded we hopped on. Travelling early is often a good idea here as it seems people do not really get going much before 10am. The tram followed the coastal fringe and we hopped off at the stop adjacent Jeronimo Monastery.

Our timed tickets were for 9:30am, we were early, it was quiet and there was nearly no one around, so we decided to take morning tea at an iconic location, the home base for Pasteis de Belem. We went inside, navigated a voluminous labyrinth of tables, sat and ordered tea/latte and a couple of their custard tarts, prepared to be blown away by how different they were. More on the differences in a future post.

Suitably refreshed and toiletted, we headed over to the monastery to see, out of nowhere, huge queues of people already lined up. We made our way to the entry only to be told to join the end of the longer line, which we dutifully did. Tour operators in the mid morning have priority access (they are on a schedule, I get that), meaning our line of timed ticket holders had to wait as they dribbled us in a few at a time. I am not sure they should even sell timed-entry tickets between 9:30 and 10:30 because of the relentless flood of coach loads of people.

Over half an hour in the sun, in a queue that got longer and longer, and we were finally in to the sections of the monastery open to the public. I will say this out loud – I am a bit of a fan of a cloister. Anyone who has read our blog posts from UK will see I am drawn to them, but the cloister at Jeronimo Monastery is something else entirely.

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Tram 28, Lisboa

After a restful and necessary sleep, we woke at stupid o’clock with a grand plan, it was time to see and experience the breadth of the inner city of Lisbon. 

Breakfast, shower, packed lunch, water bottles. We walked to the top of our hill to a tram stop and awaited one of the first trams on the 28 route, heading towards Campo de Ourique, a large historic cemetery. Given we embarked at Callhariz (Bica), the trip was about a third of the route. We got on early so we could sit. Later in the day this tram gets crazy busy, with uncomfortable standing sardines the game tourists play, so we were being strategic.

Once at Campo de Ourique (one terminus for this route), we waited for the tram to make it’s return journey, the full 7ish km across the inner city, and hopped on. As one of the first on board, we selected a double seat near the back, opened the window and enjoyed the ride up and down, around and along a picturesque route that goes past many of the city’s landmarks. We traveled to the terminus at Martim Moniz. The plan was simple enough: walk the return route, following the tram lines, taking scenic side trips as they presented themselves to us.

The day was sunny, a little cooler than the previous day, but still unseasonably warm. We had our hats, sunglasses, cameras and comfortable shoes (you need them to not be shredded by the particular form of cobble/mosaic roads and foot paths that are everywhere in Lisbon) and we set off.

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Au Revoir Paris, Ola Lisbon.

TLDR = Too Long, Didn’t Read (long post follows, soz, we have been busy)

Our last couple of days in Paris were all about revisiting some of our favourite places and exploring a couple of new ones. There is so much of Europe we have yet to explore that we have no immediate plans to return… but who knows?

Near the apartment we stayed in for the first 2 trips was a boulangerie called “Du Pain et Des Idees”, which turned out to be my favourite of all, their pistachio and chocolate escargot (a delicious spiral pastry) was a much beloved memory, so we decided to cross town for breakfast and see if it was as good as we remembered.

After a complex metro trip, we arrived at Jacques Bonsargent, “our” old stop, and after a short walk were in the queue to enter this beloved shop. 

We bought a pistachio+chocolate escargot for me and a rum+raisin escargot for Jo, and a piece of Flan to share – something we had not tried before (a traditional deep dish custard tart), then headed back to the metro to make our way to the queues outside the Louvre. It was wonderful that the memory of the thing and the thing itself aligned. I would commute again for the pastries, just so good. I cannot recommend this place enough, their bread and pastries are world class, and made for a fabulous breakfast treat.

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Categories: Lisbon, Markets, Paris, Portugal, travel, Walking | 2 Comments