Motorways and Dambusters

An early start (but time enough for a “full Welsh” breakfast thanks to our early rising host), we bid farewell to the wonderful walled town of Conwy and to Wales entirely as we wended our way towards Yorkshire.

These long drive days get me thinking about roadways and main motorways in particular – they are so featureless and really, you could be anywhere on the planet and they are much the same. Getting from point A to point B is important but it is boring driving really with no real clue about the place or people visible from them.

UK roads are well signposted and fairly in-confusing, every road has a code, “M” for major highways, “A” roads for (usually) dual carriage ways and arterials, “B” roads for minor roads down to goat tracks, each with a number. I can imagine the ‘lost’ Monty Python sketch involving incessantly boring motorists discussing routes:

[in broad Yorkshire accents]Aye lad, you could go that way, but my pick would be to avoid ‘t M2 and take junction 36 to ‘t A28, drive about 17 mile in direction of ‘Mill then turn onto B417 and drive south ’til layby then merge, second exit from ‘t roundabout onto A6 which leads down hill towards ‘t creek, cross at ford then carry on ‘t destination.
[other equally broad yorkshire accent] A28? We used ‘t dream of A28, when I were lad there were only B4528 south from there and we used to travel in open hay wagon if we were lucky ….

So long as you know where you are going, it is fairly easy driving although the 6 lanes of the M1 are a bit scary, thankfully we were traveling them when traffic was heavy but still fairly zipping along. An hour or so later, when school was out for this, the beginning of May “Bank Holiday” weekend, the M1 was a huge parking lot apparently according to a friend who had to travel it at that time.

We had a break and turned off the main drag for a lot of the journey (it is more interesting that way) and headed through the Peak District. I think it is called those cause it is hilly, but lots of hills, yet the name is singular …. Go figure. We drove to Fairholme Visitor Centre via Macclesfield and went on a charming ramble through the woods there

20120505-081300.jpg
It was brisk (read fraking freezing) but lovely, we saw our first pheasant (live, not road kill, and in the wild) – such beautiful things. As we stopped and looked, the forest was indeed alive with birds, squirrels and sheep (lambing season is upon us so everywhere there are young lambs testing their legs, silvery cute and delicious).
Walked down to the Derwent reservoir, which was very picturesque

20120505-081633.jpg
Reading the signs, it turns out this was the lake/dam that was used to practice dropping the bouncing bombs later featured in “Dambusters” raids. All very interesting. We turned to the visitors centre and had lunch (a couple of suet crust pies we bought from a much awarded Conwy butcher the day before) and fed scraps to the large herd/flock of ducks that had assembled. It is wrong to feed scraps of game and turkey pies to ducks – seemed vaguely ethically questionable but they did not care.

More driving afterwards, lots of it vanilla motorway when we turned off towards Harrogate, popped into the largest Sainsburys we have ever seen, small town-sized to do some grocery shopping (B&B living for the last little bit meant our larder needed refreshing for our 5 night stay in a self-catering farm cottage).

20120505-082244.jpg
We arrived tired at Bramble Cottage, our digs for the next 5 nights. What a charmer, semi-detached, farm building conversion that is palatial – so much room to spread out, lovely kitchen and, we noticed outside, a resident Pheasant

20120505-082429.jpg
We settled in, unpacked (it is horrible living out of suitcases for extended periods of time), cooked dinner – bangers, mash and onion gravy, opened the wine, had fruit, tea, biscuits and before we knew it, the evening was over, sleep in time as tomorrow is a lazy start which I think we need.

As an aside, DAVE is a fun Telly channel, mostly available on free view throughout UK, lots of comedy and stupid stuff, just sayin’

Categories: UK Touring | Tags: , , | Leave a comment

A day in the walled town of Conwy

We had a solid night sleep in a very comfortable mansion beside the walls of the town of Conwy. The Bryn Guesthouse is wonderful, we had a “full Welsh” breakfast before heading off to the Castle Conwy – a short walk along the walls from the guesthouse.

20120503-221436.jpg
This castle is fantastic, although a ruin the is still enough standing for you to get a feeling of what it must have been like to live in it.

20120503-221601.jpg
We walked along the crenellations, climbed the towers, delved into store rooms, dungeons and privveys

20120503-221829.jpg
A moated seaward section was the royal apartments and it was interesting to see how the other half lived. We explored for ages, enjoyed it all, even the tight spiral staircase climbs up to the tops of the turrets.

After exploring the castle, we headed in to the walled township for a wander, explore and to do a little shopping. We had a look in the smallest house in the Uk – a ridiculous closet- sized niche with two levels that once housed a couple – that couple must have really got on because there was barely enough room to stand, let alone anything else.

20120503-222257.jpg
We also visited two ancient houses, one that was the oldest house in Conwy that had gone though being an inn, guest house, temperance hall and much more, still in astonishing condition – oak frame, wattle and daub walls seem to last forever

20120503-222636.jpg
You got a real sense of how they lived in those hard times. The walls were thick and the houses cosy even though they lacked things we take for granted, like basic sanitation and running water inside.

We then headed to an Elizabethan house that had been restored for display to see how the other half lived

20120503-223005.jpg this highly decorated and extensive house was amazing, ornate plaster ceilings, decorated fireplaces, creaky oak floors and even an observatory am the house very grand, even by today’s standards

20120503-223225.jpg
All very interesting indeed. We had lunch at an upstairs cafe called Amilies, both had pâté – Jo had chicken liver, I had salmon, delicious. We then shopped, browsed, wall walked and generally used the afternoon, then returned for a siesta, fully tuckered out.

In the evening, we drove over to Llandudno, a seaside town, for fish and chips from a much awarded Fish Tram Chips shop. We walked our catch down to he seaside and ate it in the twilight, surrounded by seagulls. Returning to home base, we ad tea, some of the cake we purchased earlier and then packed in readiness for a day of driving towards Yorkshire tomorrow.

Categories: travel | Tags: , , | Leave a comment

Didn’t We Have A Lovely Day, The Day We Drove To Bangor.

After a solid sleep in a rickety bed in Talybont-on-Usk, we awoke to a hearty breakfast, packed and set off for a day of driving to the north of Wales.

We had advice not to take the motorway (thanks Mike and Trip Advisor) and so headed into the hills for the scenic tour (motorways the world over are great for getting from point A to point B but you get no sense of the country using them we have found).

20120503-215635.jpg

We headed for Devils Bridge via Rhayader and walked down into a gorge to view the strangest bit of building I have seen so far. Three bridges, one built atop the other across a narrow ravine. Some lovely folklore surrounds these but the scenery was rugged, river rushed through steep walls and it was a spectacular break from driving.

20120503-215605.jpg

We then headed to Dolgellau and a tea room called T H Roberts, in the old Parliament House building, or what was left of it. People around us were talking the lilting, guttural, gibberish with occasional English words chucked in which turned out to be Welsh. Jo had Welsh Rarebit which was a leek, cheese and mustard toastie and I had turkey, Brie and cranberry on a tasted ciabatta – yummy and quite light.

After lunch we evaded out onto the road again but instead of heading for the motorway, we headed further up the mountain range to Cafe Glendwr & Glaslyn Ice Cream in Beddgelert. Walsh Welsh icecream was dreamy, made in the shop and it came highly recommended.

20120503-215654.jpg

Fortified and reaching our dairy quota for the week, we headed up into the Snowdonia National park, and the Pass of Aber-Glaslyn. The scenery was breathtaking, snow-capped mountains, debris fields of slate, huge boulders, even a picturesque copper mine. Although the roads were wiggly and edged with sharp stone walls, bordered by sheer cliffs and mostly wide enough for one car it was really lovely driving (if a little tough on the cars gear box).

20120503-220024.jpg

Coming down from the mountains we pointed plastic patsy at Bangor, a seaside township in northern Wales so could walk on the pier to stretch our legs. Such a relic from a bygone era, piers are in many seaside towns and sometimes they are lined with stalls, shops and amusements.

20120503-220038.jpg

It was late in the afternoon when we pointed plastic patsy at Conwy, our digs for the next 2 nights. We arrived on the outside of the town walls. This is one of the few walled townships with its walls still largely intact.

20120503-220225.jpg

After settling in we headed out to Watsons Bistro we had booked for dinner. I had spiced parsnip soup for a starter which was warming and delicious, then both Jo and I had lamb, cooked til meltingly tender, on a bed pickled red cabbage, garnished with leek and lentils and a pot of dreamy garlic potatoes. Jo had toffee pudding for dessert. All in all an outstanding meal.

20120503-220243.jpg

After dinner, it was still light (this perpetual twilight does my head in, light at 8pm is nuts really, sun finally goes down after 9pm) so we walked half of the town walls – you climb up to the crenellations and then walk along the boundary of the town, brilliant views and so much history. If the stones could talk they would reveal amazing tales I am sure.

20120503-220330.jpg

Tuckered out, we were asleep before our heads hit the pillows. Brilliant day.

Categories: UK Touring | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment