Abbey, Castle, Castle, Pub

We slept in a little this morning and so were in a bit off rush initially to pack and leave Looe. Patsy took us to the motorway and soon we were leaving Cornwall, through Deavon, bypassing Plymouth and into southern Wales.

After a tea and wee stop we motored to the ruin of Tintern Abbey.

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This full medieval abbey, trancept, nave and all was once attached to a Cistercian Monastry, the ruins of which are also on this site. It was awesome wandering this site, you gotta real feel for the building that, in comparison, was fairly similar to Westminster Cathedral which we visited a few weeks back.

The scale and majesty was humbling, you could easily see how grand the building and surrounds would have been back in the 13th century. It is incomprehensible to me that sort of age, as an Australian you rarely see buildings much more than 200 years old.

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We had lunch, shopped a little then headed ack out onto the motorway on our way to Raglan Castle, another ancient ruin set in the Welsh countryside.

20120501-221224.jpgWow, no, really, wow! This place was awesome – turrets, grand halls, spiral staircases and a bunch of details that you looked at and could see people living there, working and dying.

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We found dungeons, cellars, arrow and cannon holes (uniquely, this castle had both arrow and artillery, one of the few surviving of that era)

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We thought the “Keep” was most interesting, a tower inside a moat, with an explodable drawbridge, amazing defenses and even a stone privy, just awesome

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We wandered and explored for ages, thoroughly enjoying the place. We then hopped back on the motorway and headed to Tretower court and castle. This was really different – the court was a walled and slightly defendable enclosed Tudor village that was in remarkable condition

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Built around a central court yard, the range and scale of rooms were amazing, as was the method of construction and degree of preservation

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The community that lived he would have retreated to the “keep”, a separate fortified structure nearby when threatened by hostile forces. Unfortunately we could not get to the keep of this complex because the local creek had flooded due to nearly 3 weeks of rain in this area.

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All in all an awesome day of exploration. We then eased to our digs for the night, The Star Inn, a pub of renown in the town of Talybont-on-Usk (yeah, don’t ask) and a room upstairs. After a pint and a plate of asparagus for starters (served simply and deliciously topped with a perfectly poached egg), Jo had a luscious lamb shank and I had a rabbit pie, both served with local veg – delicious

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All in all a brilliant introduction to Wales, looking forward to seeing more tomorrow.

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Plastic Patsy

We have come to appreciate our SatNav “plastic patsy” for a whole bunch of reasons.

After trying a bunch of voice options, we settled on “Joanna Lumly” – aka Patsy from Absolutely Fabulous, because her instructions were calming, authoritative and easy to understand. The satnav is a TomTom brand – I am sure you have your preferences but after trying lots we liked the software and overall operation of the tomtom.

She plots our course, gives astonishingly accurate estimates on arrival time, takes into account local road conditions, gives us a bunch of “navigate to” options we can make sense of and generally does a great job (no, this is not an advert).

We have been genuinely delighted by the voice-skin on many occasions. We howled with laughter the first time we went the wrong way only to be told by Patsy “no, darling, when you get a chance, turn around”. Journeys are no longer complete without her announcing “You have reached your destination, darling”.

Today we were yet again surprised by her. After a flurry of turn left, bear right, go left on the roundabout third exits we were heading to a river ford when she boldly said “take the ferry, sweetie”, we both looked at each other, she repeated it and we howled with laughter again.

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It is good traveling with Patsy, even if sometimes the data she uses inaccurate or incomplete, the journey is interesting unless someone else in the car decides they know a better way. One thing I have yet o reconcile is who to follow when another assertive woman in the car is convinced Patsy is leading us astray … You get that I suppose.

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That Other Eden

After a leisurely start, we motored in the rain to The Eden Project. We got there an hour after opening time and the car parks were empty, so we got nice and close, then walked down to the main complex.

Wow

What used to be a china clay pit has been transformed by tonnes of soil and even more tlc into a lush oasis of outside gardens and cold biomes

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We checked in the headed to the link building for morning tea – toasted tea buns (a first for us) in one of the large communal dining spaces

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We then headed into the Mediterranean biome, a sub-tropical enclosed space (the roof is made up of a hexagonal grid spanned with plastic inflated pillows, ingenious, fascinating, insulating, intriguing.

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It was nice to be warm, but the plants and integrated sculptures were fascinating. One does not get a sense of the scale of the space until you are inside it and see full sized trees dwarfed by the enclosing roof structure – just wonderful

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After wandering for a while we headed to the tropical biome and instantly felt more comfortable, temperatures just like home.

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It was interesting, there were health warnings about extreme temperatures (24 degrees C is not extreme to us) and high humidity but honestly we felt fine, peeled off layers down to shirts, nice to be so warm, it has been a while since we have been that comfortable.

The tropical biome is fascinating but we recognized most of the plants, grow many so headed up, up, up. It is staggering that you can climb to the top of the highest dome and we queued to do it, having sighted a medical disclaimer that temp extremes and exertion were not their liability – lol. We did see some pasty white people suffering however so I guess it is better to be safe than sorry.

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We wandered the gardens outside, headed to a building they call the core and went inside to play with the science things it contained- this would be a brilliant excursion, so much thought has been put into the art styling, education, carbon footprint, recyclability and green credentials here

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In the centre of the core building is a megalithic sculpture of a seed abstract – so cool

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We left Eden impressed and enjoying a temporary respite from the rain, and drove to Fowey. Locals pronounce it “foy” as in “joy” and this highlights what I think is fairly typical of Cornish names – they leave out half the letters. Example – there is a place here called Launceston – all oz people know how to pronounce that, here they pronounce it “Lawnstun”, lol. Anyways, Fowey is on the opposite peninsula to Polruan that we visited a day or so ago. It too is a town clinging for dear life to a cliff cut by the sea.

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The walk down was Olympian but we did it because we had researched a legendary Cornish cream tea place and were determined to try one (having mastered the Devon cream tea, we were keen to try the “jam first” version).

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Jo had blackcurrant and I had gooseberry, the cream was astonishingly thick but the combination delicious.

After exploring Fowey for a while, we scaled the cliff to the carpark at the top and then asked plastic patsy to take us to Polporro. Therein lay a mistake. Yee gods, that town is difficult to actually get to – the township has no parking, a one-way loop in and the most terrifyingly narrow street I have ever mistakenly driven down the wrong way. We were ready to give up and go back to Looe when we decided to try a third time to enter the town and finally found the carpark. Depends on the road you come in on it seems. We walked down to the harbour, amongst the higglety pigglety arrangements of houses clinging to the rocks of the narrow inlet

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We were looking for a legendary pub “The Blue Peter”, nestled right against the sea wall we found it, had a pint and then a wonderful meal – Jo had local crab linguini and I had fish and chips (the fish was perfect, thin tempura batter, perfectly cooked). The meals were huuuuuuge, we did our best


Fully stuffed and a little bit loaded (‘pint of best packs a punch), we walked back to the car and headed back to Looe and a little bit of organization before bed, we head to Wales tomorrow so have to up-sticks and pack the car again.

Amazing day, even though the weather only really improved as we got home. We certainly have experienced the full gamut of Cornish weather, hopefully we will get a share of decent weather in Wales.

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