Day trip to Sintra and Cascais

Lisbon was our base, and there is lots to see and do in and around the city, but we also decided a day trip to Peña Palace on Sintra mountain would be interesting.

I set out early, as I had to trek up to the top of our hill, then over and down another funicular path to the rendezvous point (outside Armani Exchange) to meet the small group tour minibus run by Lisbon Riders. I arrived a little early and there was no sign of anyone. Eventually people gathered. Some got confused and headed off to wait somewhere else just before our guides arrived and wondered where everyone was. Our group of 7 was assembled, we hopped in a 9 seater van and we headed out.

Lisbon, like all cities waking up in the morning is a bit of a tangle, and our guide skilfully navigated terrifying traffic, slip ways and freeways out of the city towards the distant mountains. It was a warm day again in the city, but I packed a woolly vest just in case, and am so glad I did. Our first destination was part way up the mountain range to the quaint little town of Sintra. As we headed for the hills we could see clouds forming, explained as Atlantic Ocean breezes condensing as they pushed up and over the range, we were warned about the sudden temperature changes ahead. Most of the tour group were in tshirts and shorts. The cold shock as we got out to sightsee was obvious.

Sintra township is dominated by a summer palace, favoured by royalty as a cooler place to retire to in the heat of summer. Grand buildings, kitchens topped with odd conical chimneys apparently modelled after Tagines (moorish cooking pots).

We were given some free time to explore, I sought out a little shop called La Piroqueeta (small angry woman, apparently) for some of the regional specialty pastries- “Pillows”, which were flaky pastry bundles filled with various fillings. I chose the traditional, which was almond, egg and sugar (a little like almond pastry cream), ate one and packed some to bring home for supper. Light and delicious as morning tea.

After a good look around, we got some history of the place, and had pointed out the moorish fortifications higher up, before we headed down the other side of the range towards the western coast of Portugal.

Fairly soon we were driving atop cliffs facing the Atlantic Ocean. Rugged coastline and brisk lazy winds lashed us at a lookout overlooking a small fishing village. Apparently this is a much sought after summer holiday destination – so popular that the old royal family built a private tramway so they could bathe and take in the sun, which further ostracised them from their subjects as they were not allowed to use the tram, well at least not until after the revolution.

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Belem – Lisboa

Armed with timed-entry tickets and a bit of luck we readied fairly early and then headed down the hill to the bus stop near the metro station closest to us, looking for a ride further towards the ocean, to a place called Belem.

A modern tram (15E) arrived, we had expected a bus or older rattle box, but because it was not crowded we hopped on. Travelling early is often a good idea here as it seems people do not really get going much before 10am. The tram followed the coastal fringe and we hopped off at the stop adjacent Jeronimo Monastery.

Our timed tickets were for 9:30am, we were early, it was quiet and there was nearly no one around, so we decided to take morning tea at an iconic location, the home base for Pasteis de Belem. We went inside, navigated a voluminous labyrinth of tables, sat and ordered tea/latte and a couple of their custard tarts, prepared to be blown away by how different they were. More on the differences in a future post.

Suitably refreshed and toiletted, we headed over to the monastery to see, out of nowhere, huge queues of people already lined up. We made our way to the entry only to be told to join the end of the longer line, which we dutifully did. Tour operators in the mid morning have priority access (they are on a schedule, I get that), meaning our line of timed ticket holders had to wait as they dribbled us in a few at a time. I am not sure they should even sell timed-entry tickets between 9:30 and 10:30 because of the relentless flood of coach loads of people.

Over half an hour in the sun, in a queue that got longer and longer, and we were finally in to the sections of the monastery open to the public. I will say this out loud – I am a bit of a fan of a cloister. Anyone who has read our blog posts from UK will see I am drawn to them, but the cloister at Jeronimo Monastery is something else entirely.

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Tram 28, Lisboa

After a restful and necessary sleep, we woke at stupid o’clock with a grand plan, it was time to see and experience the breadth of the inner city of Lisbon. 

Breakfast, shower, packed lunch, water bottles. We walked to the top of our hill to a tram stop and awaited one of the first trams on the 28 route, heading towards Campo de Ourique, a large historic cemetery. Given we embarked at Callhariz (Bica), the trip was about a third of the route. We got on early so we could sit. Later in the day this tram gets crazy busy, with uncomfortable standing sardines the game tourists play, so we were being strategic.

Once at Campo de Ourique (one terminus for this route), we waited for the tram to make it’s return journey, the full 7ish km across the inner city, and hopped on. As one of the first on board, we selected a double seat near the back, opened the window and enjoyed the ride up and down, around and along a picturesque route that goes past many of the city’s landmarks. We traveled to the terminus at Martim Moniz. The plan was simple enough: walk the return route, following the tram lines, taking scenic side trips as they presented themselves to us.

The day was sunny, a little cooler than the previous day, but still unseasonably warm. We had our hats, sunglasses, cameras and comfortable shoes (you need them to not be shredded by the particular form of cobble/mosaic roads and foot paths that are everywhere in Lisbon) and we set off.

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