Wildflowers- Mingenew and beyond

Leaving Denham, we had nearly 500km to travel to our new digs just outside of Dongarra. We did this in stages, ensuring rest breaks. Most of it was highway driving, mostly big empty roads but I did have to overtake a 4 trailer Road Train at one stage which was mighty hairy.

Once past the national park areas, the scenery opened up into rural scenes, flat undulating fields filled with of canola (bright bright yellow), oats (green and white) and wheat and barley as far as the eye could see. It was variously overcast/showery but during the drive we saw all sorts of weather. The roads were in good condition and overtaking lanes reasonably placed, we made good time.

We stopped for lunch and a bit of a stretch at Northampton in cutie little garden park that was clearly a Mecca for caravan pullers. It is interesting how often we have seen public waste traps for vans to empty into, clearly they have geared up to support touring visitors.

Arriving in Dongarra, before going to our accommodation, we visited the visitor centre and went on a walk down by the Irwin Estuary. The Irwin is another of the major rivers here that seems to meander all over the place. The walk took us down beside some soft low sandstone cliffs,  to our surprise we encountered 3 honey bee hives, 2 of them with visible honeycomb tucked away in recesses in the cliff. So interesting. The beach was pretty windswept and covered in chopped up seagrass, am sure it is nicer in summer months.

Our digs for the next couple of days is a self-contained apartment that is part of a large shed – spacious, well appointed and very comfortable. 

We checked in late, quickly settled in and did some food prep for the next couple of days, melted into a pair of dangerously comfortable recliner rockers and rested after a long day on the road.

Next morning, refreshed, we drove to Mingenew, spoke to a helpful staff member in the visitor centre, they suggested a number of locations within range for us to explore wildflowers. She suggested the scrub behind the hockey fields, on and around Mingenew Hill, and a journey further afield to Coalseam Conservation Park.

Parking behind the local hockey field, we set off into a wedge of bushland adjacent and before too long we were finding abundant examples of many wildflowers we had not seen. I was particularly driven to look for native orchids, especially spider orchids, and it was not long before we started finding little clumps of them. Finding them is tricksey – I am used to large blooms on orchids, some of the natives are teeny tiny, spotting them involves a technique of standing still and systematically scanning for changes in texture and colour. The spider and cowslip orchids we found were beautifully delicate, had lovely fine markings and seemed to proliferate in the shadows of more established plants. So chuffed to see them in the wild.

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Shark Bay Conservation Area

From Kalbarri we headed north – the goal was Denham, our next digs. The distance was about 400km, so naturally we needed to break it up so that the driver (Peter) was not too fatigued. 

The journey along Highway 1 was pretty uneventful, although there was a little more traffic coming against us and a lot more road trains. Road trains are pretty scary articulated vehicles, often over 35m long, that really barrel along. I have yet to need to pass one, but dread that eventuality.

Beige fury, our current hire car, has a bit of punch and handled the open road and 110km/hr speed limit pretty seamlessly. I got pretty good at picking empty stretches of road to pass slow caravans etc. Pretty impressed with the performance and handling of the Mazda 3 actually.

We stopped for lunch at the Overlander Roadhouse adjacent to the turnoff for Shark Bay, also picked up coffee for Jo and a Pepsi Max for the driver (hydration matters on such long drives, bladder breaks do also).

Heading out into the Shark Bay Wildlife Conservation area we drove some long straight roads up the peninsula. The area is vast, contains some unique and delicate ecosystems and is so different to what we are used to. 

First stop was Shell bay, a curious “beach” comprised of tiny shells of a bivalve that thrives in the saline microclimate. It appears there are some of the worlds largest seagrass meadows offshore, this creates a one way barrier that causes the inner waters to be twice as salty as normal seawater- perfect for a narrow range of species, the tiny cockle being one that has thrived in vast numbers.

We walked on the beach, down to the waterline, such a strange but unique place. Apparently you can swim there, but are more buoyant, and emerge with a salt crust. With no handy shower to clean up post swim, we decided against a dip even though it was so warm and inviting.

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Kalbarri and environs

The commute to Kalbarri from Cervantes is nearly 400km. A lot by normal standards, but not for WA. The state, like the island continent is vast and the distances between centres can be daunting. Fortunately our hire car, Beige Fury, is comfortable and fairly zips along. The drive was done in stages.

We stopped in a park by the ocean in Dynamite Bay for lunch and a loo break. It seems the coast line is pockmarked with little inlets and bays – safe anchorages now but it was not clearly always so. Coastal towns all along the WA coastline have history of shipwrecks and you can see why with the often wild and woolly seas battering the coast.

Stopping every hundred km or so to stretch legs, empty bladder etc is always part of the plan. We got tea/coffee in Dynamite Bay also from the cafe there – frankly the best cup of tea since we arrived in the west. It is fascinating how little baristas know about making tea – this cup was made by a self-confessed tea drinker.

We stopped to fill up with petrol just outside Geraldton, but seem to be getting good economy from Beige Fury. We have some big distances to cover on this trip, but are finding the scenery interesting, varied, and the roads big, wide, well maintained and largely empty, making the driving easier. The car has a load of “smart” features, and I am getting used to them. We are about to embark on the purchase of a new car, so it is interesting what modern cars can do nowadays.

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