Athens – a room with a view (and some flu)

The go go go of travel and the wildly changing weather conditions had finally taken its toll on us and Jo’s sniffle turned into coughs and temperatures. Fortunately, due to some good advice (from the lovely Mrs Noisy) we broke out our travel antibiotics and we had the good sense to slow down in Athens.

Our playboy apartment was a short walk from Syntagma Square, a train line meeting point and there were lots of things to do and see in the local area so it was not a loss really.image

I was sent on food raids, found hidden kebab and gyros shops off the tourist path, pie shops (Greeks like pastry and bread) and were well sustained during the day.

On our second last day in Athens, there was something I really wanted to explore – the Archaelogical Museum, and the prospect of going solo concerned me a bit. I could see the headline now : “And that was the last she ever saw of her husband”, but with a mud map in tow, I caught a red line for a couple of stops getting me to Omonia Square and after an initial bewildering walk around the square and heading off in entirely the wrong direction (those who know me would not be surprised by this) until I ran into a street that was on my map, and realising it was the wrong side of the map.image

Once I got my bearings I was off and before too long arrived. It was open until 8, Jo said she would not start worrying until after 5 so it was all good as I casually meandered in and out of some astonishing collections of artifacts. Read more »

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Athens – It’s All Greek To Me

After a strenuous but well planned transit day from Rome, we arrived at the train station near the airport, negotiated tickets like a pro and headed to find a train luggage in tow. Our home station is Syntagma Square but the bloody Greek alphabet has s’s as sigmas, Rs as Ps, and more bizarre symbol combinations which I am told are phonetic, with sort of English under them, well, most times(ish) a shift in brain function and signs started to make sense.image

Our new digs (can’t make this shit up) is plumb between Guy Laroche and the Playboy shop in the posh part of town. 7th floor caused a heart flutter until we found a lift (well, in truth a single person carrier that both of us and our luggage just about fit, bugger the weight limitations right, they are just guidelines not laws) and were soon making sense of the apartment.image

We looked at maps, they were free and seemed to be great until we started using them to discover that only main roads were indicated – great for gross navigation, less so for finding a particular place if you only have a vague idea where you are to start with. All through this holiday, Jo had made Google maps of the areas and attractions, capturing them on the iPad so we can use them offline and they have been a lifesaver.

We were tired, it was late, we headed to the supermarket for some basic supplies (milk, butter, bread etc) then returned to the apartment to settle in. I had been feeling fluey for a couple of days and Jo had a cough we attributed to the pollution and second hand smoking we are doing being amongst natives but I was running a temperature, dosed up and after an interesting restaurant meal had an early night.

Awaking seemingly refreshed, we headed out on foot via a number of vague map directions to the Central Markets which was an eye opening experience. We needed lamb, fish and chicken, and saw chunks of each freshly slaughtered. Negotiating with market stall owners, and avoiding the slippery floors underfoot was interesting and although I think we only sort of knew what we were buying, we managed to get our meat. On to the vegie stands for staples then back to the unit to store them in larder and fridge.image

After a rest and restorative cup of tea we headed out on the metro one stop away to grab some lunch – we wanted to try both Kebabs (a skewer of spiced lamb mince bbqd wrapped in a pita with salad) and a gyros (sliced meat much like a doner kebab wrapped in a pita with chips – yeah, I know, weird hey- and salad and yoghurt and garlic sauce). Both were delicious. The pita was thick, puffy, warm and utterly yummy. I could easily do lots of them.image

Feeling suitably fed, we headed off to explore Agora – an ancient city under a part of Athens that had many periods of occupancy. We bought multi-site passes that let us into the major areas so we could do them in an order that suited us.image

The first site, called “Roman Agora” was difficult to visualise – piles of rubble, lines of column bases and neat stacks of stones earmarked for reconstruction sometime, possibly. It was originally a roman market place and you could sort of get it, temple one end, colonnades and stalls around.image

We then headed to a larger section of Agora, dating to 400BC and before, which breaks my brain. We wandered through remains of buildings, courtyards, temples and roads. We went through a reconstructed stoa (colonnaded pavilion) which now houses a museum containing some lovely pottery and lots of decapitated statues – heads seem in short supply on Greek statues it seems.

We wended our way up the gentle slope, a clearly tantalising Acropolis over our left shoulder, towards an intact temple that was first used in 428BC, converted to a Christian church in 7AD and later used to bury Protestants in the 1800s. It nestles beautifully into an olive studded hillside and is the very model of what I think of when someone says Greek temple.image

Last stop was a gravesite that had been used by many ages. Robbed artefacts were housed in a museum adjacent and showed grave goods stretching back to Egyptian times.

Tired and fluey, we returned to our accommodation for some rest and a home-cooked fish supper. Considering the micro kitchenette I think it turned out really well. On our tiny stove I managed to brown and cook the fish cutlets through, served with a Greek salad and dinner was done.

After a restless sleep and continued flu symptoms worsening for Jo we opted to move our rest day (we had one scheduled for Athens, so it was fine) so we could take it easy.

I had an outing, I was sent with a mission to locate and purchase Greek pies from a certain shop not far from us – chicken and bacon filled one and feta and spinach the other, delicious and a filling lunch.

We did go for a brief walk in the afternoon through the central gardens, emerging at the site of the first modern Olympics – a massive horseshoe shaped arena that was used first in the 1800s.image

I am not sure what sports that stadium could host as it was nearly all searing, nearly no track.

Re-entering the gardens on our way home we got a little lost and nearly joined a large and vocal political demonstration that was heading for the palace and Houses of Parliament but managed to skirt around them eventually.

We have noticed in Greece (and to an extent in Rome) that public trees in the streets are often citrus. At this time in the season they are laden with fruit and all the easy to reach ones are already picked. We found a mandarin tree, plucked a fruit, peeled it and attempted a segment – sour as anything which was annoying as it looked lovely and ripe – perhaps it is just that variety.

Lemon and garlic chicken was expertly sizzled in our micro kitchenette for dinner, with braised Mediterranean vegetables, making a yummy and satisfying meal to top of the day.

Our next day started early, as we arose, breakfasted and headed to the Metro to go one stop on the red line towards the Acropolis. We took our time, ascended the hill to be greeted with astonishing views of the hand built plateau that tops a hill – clearly they had augmented the existing hill with huge walls. Once the centre of religious life in Athens, the scale of the site is staggering, and the approach imposing.image

Many ages of development have left remnants. Some have been demolished to make way for more recent buildings, existing buildings are being painstakingly reconstructed using original and new materials (I like that you can tell the original from the new) and repaired from old attempts at restoration.image

It seems early attempts to ensure there was something spectacular atop the hill have damaged those somethings to the point where some have to be dismantled and rebuilt. Materials, science and techniques have improved and much of the Parthenon are now intact – such an awe inspiring building.image

After climbing through the entry gate (Propylaea) we wandered the plateau, amazed at the remains. I liked the side temple, (Erechtheion), I named it the temple of the perpetual headache because one of its porticos was held up atop the heads of a row of woman statues.image

It is clear this is a long term restoration project, piles of stones are catalogued awaiting their relocation and reconstruction, much of the feel of the latest buildings has already been effected but the reconstruction project has been going on for decades (Jo says it is just a giant jigsaw puzzle, why do they not just get on with it).image

On one of the long sides of the Acropolis, down hill and inset into the hill are a pair of gigantic amphitheatres – the neatest one (the Odeum of Herodes Atticus), has been tidied up and looks ready to host performances again but the other (Theatre of Dionysus) is little more than a ruin. It is clear that both Roman and Greek loved their theatre And understood acoustics because the design is nothing short of brilliant.image

We made the right decision to come early, as we were climbing down waves of tourists (yes, I know we are tourists also) were coursing uphill, selfie sticks in hand. We wended our way down the side of the Acropolis to the Acropolis museum, built specially to house and display remains of the site. Built in levels, there is an amazing array of pottery, statues and fragments (a head gallery – perhaps this is where al the heads ended up), coins and other objects used to live and pray.

I was particularly interested in the pigments, minerals fixed in solvents and still visible on some of the better preserved pieces. I did not realise that the temples on the Acropolis were once richly coloured as well as covered with scuplture. The top level of the museum showcases the top levels of decoration of the Parthenon, indicating clearly how spectacular it once was just from an adornment perspective. Deep relief sculptured panels along all sides tell many tales of victory, anguish and the involvement of gods and mythical animals.image

Of particular interest to me were the pediments – the triangular areas each end under the slab roofs. Proper statues, carved in the round as opposed to slab reliefs seems to me excessive. Even though the fronts were only ever partially visible from afar at ground level, they needed to be perfect in the eyes of the gods.

They depict a jumble of gods, legends and dazzling collections of tits and arse. Oddly, as seems to be the culture here, male statues are usually naked, female statues are usually fully clothed. The originals were transferred here, well, that which remained after a destructive Christian cleansing and centuries of trophy hunters looking for just the right thing for their front garden. Up on the Parthenon we could see fragments of the pediment statues (well, copies of bits) to give you an idea of space, place and scale.image

Some of the most precious and complete statuary from this site is funnily enough in the British Museum – apparently they said they would look after it until there was suitable display space in Athens, and now there is they are still looking after it.

Back to our apartment for a rest, we shall see what we are up to on the morrow.

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A Slice of Rome (or 7 coins in a fountain)

Roma is a varied and vibrant city with so much to offer the eager tourist and our last day was an easier day so naturally we had some simple things we wanted to do.

An early start and we were off to the Metro station, an underground train network of 2 lines that meet only at Termini, a transport centre of sorts. The metro is separate to the train, bus and tram network but you can use the same tickets for most. We had pre-purchased a day pass so were free to jump on and off as we liked.image

We headed for Vatican City, an odd (in my opinion) section of the city that is sort of like its own country. We had heard the queues can be horrendous, but we arrived pretty early (opening time) and were pretty well straight in.

This visit we planned to look at St. Peter’s Square (which turned out to be round – so I am already confused) and the Basilica.image

After a frisk and bag X-ray we were in and wandered towards the Basilica. The surrounds of the square have unusual proportions, the curved colonnades dwarf people but from a distance create the sense of a space which for many is a holy place that the Pope appears in. When we were there they were setting out sections of seating, we presume it was for the Popes audience tomorrow but we are not sure. Huge video screens and a massive sound system elevate the pontiff to rock star status, making it easier for the faithful to see and hear their leader. There was a papal stage with nice white awning and further up the building a balcony that could be used for orations.image

Although I work in a catholic school, much of the pageantry and spectacle still remains a mystery to me.

We entered the vestibule and then the basilica and were struck with the scale and ornamentation.

The space is huge, like really really big, and every surface is adorned by coloured marble, gold, statuary, pope tombs and inlay.image

One of the things I really wanted to see was Michelangelo’s “Pieta” – a single block of marble breathed into life as the tragic scene of a dead Jesus slumped over the lap of a grieving Mary (at least I think that is the subject). At its simplest it is a mum grieving her son and as such is a definitive study in posture, facial expression and composition. The artistry of this work is breathtaking – regardless of the symbology, the marble has flowing fabric, live flesh and a real sense of tragedy and despair. It was difficult to get close to this work (much like the Mona Lisa) which is a real pity, but it was stunning none the less.image

Walking around in the basilica you notice that each nook and cranny is a separate chapel, most running services but the ambience of the whole space was remarkably quiet. Each nook was elaborately decorated with either altar or tomb, the floor was marble mosaic in large geometric shapes. The morning streamed in to the auditorium elevating its grandeur and scale.

Each dome interior, and there were lots, outdid the next in terms of decoration and sheer eye candy. Gold, mosaic and fresco combined into a huge and awesome space.

The funniest things we saw were nuns and priests with selfie sticks (a modern cancer that has surely reached saturation point – we were pestered by street vendors all over Europe trying to sell us one) grinning like maniacs in front of holy relics – I can imagine the Facebook posts of “I prayed here” and the like.image

We went to the Vatican post office and bought stamps for postcards for the mothers back home and posted them in the city, we are hoping the Colosseum postcards find their way home.

After another stroll around the square we headed home for a rest, dismissing “beat the line” scalpers that came out in force in the area around the Vatican City entry, noticing to our surprise the size of the queue now waiting to get in. It is clear we did the right thing coming early.image

After lunch and a rest we decided to head out and “do the sights”, using a guided walk thing we had, taking us through “the heart of Rome” pointing out important landmarks.

The walk was really interesting, and it started in a piazza called Campo di’Fiori which, when we were there hosted the remnants of a huge open air market. In the centre of the piazza is a huge statue of a depressed hooded figure Giordano Bruno, an intellectual who was burned here for speaking his mind (the heretic!).image

We wended through old streets, visiting gelato and lolly shops, leather and jewellery shops (Jo got a lovely pair of leather gloves). We arrived in Piazza Novono, an oblong open space now with 3 fountains in it, huge gauche marble fiascos that are all very lovely but apparently this piazza was originally a racetrack – Romans loved to gamble and racing was a favourite money waster. The level of the ground is much higher than it used to be – building upon buildings; in past ages they used to flood the piazza with water to make a free pool for cooling off in the summer – viewing an archaeological dig on the side of it and seeing where the original roman floor is it is easy to imagine how flooding it would be possible.image

From here, via a convoluted but interesting set of side streets we emerged at a bustling piazza full of people listening to a brass band, behind them rose the Pantheon (not to be confused with the Parthenon in Greece). This marvel of engineering built by Hadrian in 120AD is still a working church, a service was about to get underway at the main altar when we visited (over the PA we could hear, in 7 different languages, requests for silence that were almost completely ineffective). Based under a huge vaulted dome with an open operculum (there is a central hole in the roof- open to the elements), the marble floors and elaborate carvings all around are most impressive.image

When we were there a circular patch of sunlight was working its way down the inside of the dome- just amazing. Around the inside of the cavernous space were chapels and tombs, marble and gilded wood, quite lovely. We even found the tomb of the guy (and his wife) for whom the “margherita” pizza was named – at last a pilgrimage I can relate to.image

The building was clearly mostly really old, the portico was beaten up and the columns at the front look like they have survived many a siege. What an interesting place.

From the Pantheon, we again wended our way through streets that led past the Houses of Parliament, outside which there was a noisy, flag waiving demonstration that we skirted around. They were grouped around an obelisk that apparently Augustus liberated from Egypt in 6BC.image

In the piazza on the other side of the parliament was a column that dated back to 2BC carved ornately to celebrate Marcellus’ victories – amazing to think it has been here so long.image

Continuing on with our journey, we wove among busy streets, turned a corner and were at the Trevi Fountain. Although it was closed for repair and cleaning (years of lime scale are being cleaned off), we walked over a gantry erected over the fountain and threw coins off it, even though there were signs saying not to do . There was a portly police officer mid way keeping coin tossers to one side, non coin tossers to the other. Clearly they realise people want some symbolic “we will return to Rome” memory so tolerate the behaviour. We managed to get rid of the annoying tiny change Schapelle that had accumulated, thus guaranteeing we will be back.image

From the Trevi Fountain, we wended our way towards The Spanish Steps – oddly covered in potted azaleas in full bloom. We joined couples on the steps, cuddling, canoodling and telling “selfie stick” vendors to bugger off. This was our last stop on the path before finding our way to the restaurant we had booked for dinner – a tiny 10 table place that featured modern spins on ancient roman recipes. The food and wine were delicious and we left with full tummies and empty wallets.image

Returning to our unit, we did a final pack, set the alarm for ridiculous o’clock and slept solidly. The next day was a transfer/transit day with a taxi to the train station (we could have walked, but it was early and we were still tired) and a train trip to the airport, then a little wait before boarding Aegean Airlines for the 2ish hr flight to Athens (where we also, due to the vagaries of timey-wimey wibbly wobbly, lost an hour) meaning our arrival at the unit (a maze of train and mystery alphabet street names) was late afternoon.image

After finding our apartment nestled between The Playboy shop and Guy Laroche, on the 7th floor (gasp) with a lift (huzzah), we deposited bags and headed to the supermarket for basic supplies before settling in and seeking dinner.

We have both developed coughs (we think from the pollution and second hand smoking) but mine matured into hot/cold achey flu symptoms so after some Panadol I had a relatively early night.

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