A Drive, a Mount, a Cream Tea

After packing the car we set off for Otterton Mill in Devon, as the first leg in our drive to Cornwall.

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This working mill was, sadly, not working today but the workings were interesting as was our first Devon “cream tea” which is essentially amazing scones, beautiful artisan jam and the most astonishing cream. Local custom sees you add the cream first (this is purely practical as the clotted cream is so thick that you wouldn’t be able to spread it over the slippery luscious jam) – delicious indeed and just the right thing as a rest stop. The tea was strong (Jo’s mother strong – you could stand your spoon in it nearly – jks)

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Plastic patsy was then supposed to navigate us to a wood where we were to have our lunch, but got a little confuzzled and sent us on a labrynthal exploration of some lovely narrow lanes and tiny, out of the way villages – all very interesting.

Back on the motorway we powered on to Cornwall and soon found ourselves near Penzance at Saint Michaels Mount. Jo had planned it so we would arrive when the tide was out, there is a causeway that links the mount with the mainland that exposed at low tide. We walked out and had planned to catch the boat back after the tide had come in but because the weather has been so horrible, they decided not to run any boats and we had to rush before the tide took us on the causeway.

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We climbed to the top of the mount, and explored the castle which was amazing (no idea how they made it and got the materials there in between tides, quit an engineering feat I think.

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We managed to get back to the mainland safely then checked in at our B&B accommodation at Penzance. A nicely appointed room that should be comfortable.

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We headed out to Mousehole to a restaurant called The Smugglers and had a nice meal of seafood to round off the day.

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More tripping tomorrow, should be fun.

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A Wet Bath and a visit to the Underworld

After a wet night, we awoke to grey skies and blustery drizzle but were determined to see as much of Bath as we could. We walked up to a local bus stop and community bussed into the city centre. This places huge and quaint and most buildings are faced with a soft limestone unique to the area. The buildings are a sort of dirty cream colour, the stone is so soft that cleaning it abrades it so most do not.

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We walked around the Bath Abbey, a glorious towering church (apparently the third on that site, fashion changed with faith it appears) and then joined a lovely little old lady who took us on a walking tour around significant parts of the city.
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It rained, blew a gale and was freaking cold a lot of the time but the tour was very interesting. Our guide, a local volunteer, was very enthusiastic and it was a great way to get to know something about the city and the people who lived/made and designed it.

It turns out that we are lodged in a part of the house where the guy who invented plasticine lived- in a small way we are directly connected with Wallace and Grommit 🙂

After nearly 2 hours of trudging in the rain, we left the tour and headed for the Marlborough Tavern. It was Anzac Day, so a pint of best bitter was had for the lads. We had a stellar lunch (lentil, coconut and chilli soup followed by our mains – Jo had mussels and I had a burger – delicious).

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After re-tracing some of the tour to take photos, as the sun had sort of made some appearances, we ended up at the Roman Bath. From the outside it is a small building that is not very impressive but I am so glad we went inside.

BELOW the streets of bath is a roman town, under the bath building they have excavated these ruins and we were able to walk through extensive areas of actual roman road surfaces, temple courtyards and bath rooms, hot rooms etc. It was just amazing.

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The main bath, still fed by hot springs is impressive, and the associated rooms were really interesting. We had audio guides which made it all the more informative. So glad we went (as we had contemplated just going home and thawing out)

After a little shopping, we bussed back to Bathampton and made diner, then re-organised out bags for the series of B&Bs we have planned for the Cornish coast starting tomorrow. We retired to bed exhausted. Long but interesting day.

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Henges Rock, OK

After a leisurely breakfast, we packed up lunch (a nice healthy salad and some fruit, trying to watch the calorie intake for a while) and headed out in the car into the countryside towards Avebury

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Along the way near Cherhill we saw a huge chalk horse, a petraglyph, in the side of the hill. It was still foggy, squint and you can make it out in the distance – our first ancient monument.

We headed towards West Kennet Long Barrow, an ancient burial mound made over 5000 years ago – it has been excavated and you can walk inside part of it now – just awesome, we had a brisk walk to the top of a hill beside fields of yellow rape seed crops glistening in the spring sunshine

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20120424-225532.jpg visible from here was an enormous man-made hill, Silbury Hill, I find it amusing when historians try to make sense of stuff that happened in pre-history, without any written records to back up their claims, but this stuff is awesome.

We then headed to Avebury to the site of a series of ancient stone circles

20120424-230213.jpgIn glorious sunshine, we walked the circle, coming face to face with a baffling but beautiful monument

20120424-230314.jpgIt blows my mind that this monument was here 4500 years ago, constructed then abandoned long before the Egyptians were building the pyramids. The rare privilege of getting so close to this stuff is really humbling

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We had a cup of tea, visited the museum there, which was in an oak and thatch barn a mere 300 years old (they recounted how, when leveling the site for the barn, they relocated part of one stone circle and the stones got used for building projects elsewhere). Real thatch is not something I have ever seen, I hope that skill does not die out as it really is lovely.

We then hopped back in the car, determined to see more of Salisbury Plains and next encountered a more well known stone circle – Stonehenge

20120424-231215.jpgAlthough you can no longer get up close to the stones at this henge, they are so impressive, and soooo big, your mind bends to think how it was made in the first place. The stone placement only bears casual reference to things like the seasons and the stars, and there is no actual evidence that the Druids were anywhere near it before it was abandoned by the ancients. It is interesting to speculate what, why and how but the truth is the henge and it’s connected barrows, avenues of standing stones, trenches and other artifacts are just as enigmatic to us as they have been to generations past.

20120424-231817.jpgTo me it is such a privilege to be able to visit, the sight of these ironstone monoliths standing much as they have for thousands of years, casting such interesting shadows in the sunlight will be a image I will carry with great awe and fondness.

Leaving Salisbury Plains, we headed to Cheddar Gorge for a well earned cup of tea

20120424-232157.jpg in a quaint little tea house, I also had my first “cream tea” with a cherry scone, cherry and port conserve and clotted cream – very yummy.

After deciding not to buy cheddar from the namesake, we headed back to Bath, with a slight diversion up Solsbury Hill

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The trip up was perilous, but the views of surrounding bath were amazing. An all round awesome day, wonderful weather, could not have asked for better.

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