France to Bath, Transit

A day late but it we a huge day, let me explain.

We got up early to finish packing then drag them to the Eurostar terminal at Gard Nord. All according to plan, we cleared customs and were on the train back to the UK in no time. We arrived at St Pancras then dragged our stuff to Kings Cross underground and trained to Heathrow to pick up our hire car. We chose a blue Renault hatchback and spent some time getting to know where everything is, how it worked and then ate our lunch before heading into traffic. Our sat nav (plastic patsy, Joanna Lumley voiced tomtom with UK maps we purchased a few weeks earlier) was completely flat so took ages to locate satellites and get signal, but we had favorites saved and when she knew where she was we were on our way towards Bath.

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I want to say I enjoyed driving out of London, but was so glad to get into the country, even though the initial lack of speed limit signs made me nervous – patsy was saying were doing fine so we trusted her ability to navigate – in oz she was nothing but reliable, and her estimates for time have been spot on so we assumed she would cope with the ‘Mother Country’ just fine.

We planned a stop at Burford in the Cotswalds, amidst some amazing stone cottages for a tea break

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Real English tea at last (the French have no idea about tea). We wandered the town, bought a top up card for our phone and then headed to Bibury, home of the Arlington Row (apparently Britain’s most photographed semi-detached houses)

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We also popped into the local trout farm and picked up some smoked trout for dinner later, then continued through the Cotswalds towards Bathampton, our digs for the next 3 nights. The driving was amazing, the roads, OMG, narrow, perilous and surrounded by forests, stone walls and hedges – so very different to anything in oz. To be honest I loved the driving – driving along tree-canopied roads is one of my favorite things and so much of the trip was between tight hedgerows, under century old moss covered trees and interesting if pokey English lanes barely wide enough for a car.

On arriving in Bathampton, we checked in at “Wee Grange” an amazing multi level annex to a high street terrace.

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We emptied the car and headed out to a grocery store to stock our larder, then returned home to unpack. Jo organized while I made a risotto and crumbled the smoked trout through it at the last moment – so yummy after such a long and exhausting day

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Bed time without blogging that day, we were shattered from all the driving, lugging and early start but it is nice to be back on uk turf also – so much is familiar, so much wildly different.

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Rest day, let’s do lunch.

We have, quite wisely it has turned out, planned rest days where there is very little agenda. This is a great idea because we have exhausted ourselves completely in Paris, but in doing so we have seen so much and I hope got a real feel for the place.

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Today was our rest day, we catch the Eurostar early tomorrow morning then transfer to Heathrow to pickup a car for the next leg of our holiday, motoring around the UK for 3ish weeks.

I had been working on a Gnome from the table cloth of les enfants Perdus, our first night restaurant, and finished him this morning as a gift to our hosts for this brilliant apartment. I used a sliver of silver from a Jaques Genim eclair case to make a button to keep his jacket closed. I am very happy with this little chap, his posture suggests he does not understand (we are very familiar with this sentiment as, speaking a mere spattering of the language, it is easy to get completely confused if the person you are trying to communicate with has no English).

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After a breakfast of French toast, made with a lovely artisan brioche loaf we purchased a few days ago and froze for this morning, we pottered around with laundry, then decided to check out some local markets then seek a cafe for lunch.

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After a delicious salad course, Jo and I both chose boeuf bourginon and found it delicious and filling, our aim is to have a very light dinner so this worked well. A glass of Sancerre and we were back for an afternoon nap before beginning to pack for our leaving Paris tomorrow.

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We have loved Paris, and found only occasionally the language barrier to be a problem. The people are warm and hospitable, the food (when you can work out what to order) is wonderful. Such attention to detail and such artistry plating to the season and the water excellent (soft in the shower
and sweet to drink from the tap).

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The weather has been a mixture of glorious, acceptable, cold and diabolical but as some wise person once wrote, there is no such thing as bad weather, merely inappropriate clothing and that is something we have learned to appreciate as true.

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Shopping and a near lethal afternoon tea

After ignoring the alarm, we awoke, showered and dressed and headed down to a local cafe, Chez Prune, for coffee au lait/tea and a croissant while the Saturday morning world went by. We relaxed, read, iPadd’d and generally felt Parisienne as we navigated clumsily the menu and the bill, much to the amusement of the locals.

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Back to our apartment, we packed some cheese, a freshly purchased baguette, apples in our backpack and headed off to the metro.

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A line change brought us out on the south bank of the seine and we headed to a renowned patisserie – La Patisserie des Reves – that looked more like an art gallery. Honestly, the pastries were all in named glass display cases and you wandered around with a catalogue admiring the glaze on this, the praline on that … Wow. We bought a Paris Brest and a St. Honore, packaged so beautifully for later.

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We walked, via a curio shop towards Le Bon Marche. Browsing in huge department stores is bewildering, finding departments within it more so, discovering they have almost but not entirely something we did not want is frustrating. Exiting one building of Le Bon, we found Etam, a frilly undies store (for Jo, settle!) we then went into Bon Marche Grand Epicurie, a gastronomic delight with foods of every type imaginable (and a bunch of things we did not even recognize as food).

We bought some duck confit (which I will crisp up then finish in the oven, then serve with a berry fruit sauce I am inventing), vegetables (spinach to wilt with butter and garlic, chat potatoes to crush) for a home made dinner later tonight. We have wine, more dessert than will fit in the fridge and the strong resolution to do it justice.

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After grocery shopping we headed to another patisserie – Jaques Genim – and was seated for a hot chocolate (china pots full of the most glorious gooey rich bitter hot chocolate that was easier to eat with a spoon than to drink) and I had a famous rum baba (the patissier is such a control freak that he insists customers sit to enjoy this treat as he does not let this one go as a takeaway). OMG. I have never tasted anything like it, so yummy.

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We also purchased a raspberry tart, a citron tart, a caramel eclair and a chocolate eclair for later. Laden down with purchased treasures, and having a credit set to melt, we headed home for a rest before cooking dinner at the end of another brilliant day.

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Pulling together the evening meal was an interesting challenge, given the size and equipment in out kitchenette but if I have to say so myself, it turned out pretty darned good. Buttered potato crush, white asparagus (not sure I would go to the expense of cooking it again, the green has bags more flavour) wilted garlicky spinach was the perfect bed for a crisp skinned duck leg and I used some Beaujolais, raspberries, stock and a little berry preserve for a piquant fruity sauce for the duck.

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After dinner, we braced for eclairs and then dove right in. Jaques Genim makes them very well we both concluded. We have some pastries for tomorrow but retire well fed, happy tummies, very tired tourists.

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