30 Comments

    • the leg in isolation is folded from a 20×20 grid, the pair of legs with shoulder patches is folded from a 32×64; the whole back half of the ryu is folded from a 48×96; the whole dragon from 96×96

      • Nick

        How do you join the 2 halves of the model together? I have finished folding it, but I cannot work out how to do it. I can send you pictures for proof. Also, how do i get a 2m size paper?

        • If folded from 2 separate bits of paper, the two fan-folds need to be bridged by strategically placed strips bridging the gaps between corresponding pleats – they will be hidden inside the body, so do not need to be too fancy, just lay flat and tidy end-to-end. Then you wrap the scaled sections around that major pleat bundle (I ran wire down mine so I could later pose it bent) and the edge of the scaled skin is glued along the dorsal spin row tidily to fully encase the major pleat bundle. I hope that makes sense.

          You can see the result in this image: http://www.wonko.info/365origami/wp-content/uploads/NorthMeetsSouth.jpg

          I made a 2mx2m (ish) sheet by joining 2×1 rectangles cut from a roll of Kraft I bought specially from a stationer – the join lies on the inside of the body and is not seen. The huge format is a materials handling nightmare in it’s own right, apart from the then mammoth task of having all the components on the same sheet, at the same time.

          • nick

            You know where the 2 sheets join together? mine is off by 1 unit if you fold it. I don’t think that you know what I am talking about, so can I send you pictures through your email? Also, what is it?

      • Victor

        oh, okay. It’s coming together very nicely! I have another question though. Why did you decide to shape them like that? Is it easier or what? I do the tool assisted shaping as well (I am on the diamond stretch lesson, so I am doing the same course) and it doesn’t seem to be much different…

        • I used the tool-assisted method also, I find it really difficult at that scale (nerve damaged hands make fine details hard work). I also like a subtle shaping is all, thinking the narrower scales look a little odd – each folder has their preferences I guess.

          • Victor

            oh, okay. It is coming out beautifully! Congratulations! How do you manage to get these grids so accurately? It seems whenever I make a grid, some squares end up being rectangles and such… I am folding the Lich King by Nguyen Tuan Anh, and it is based on a 96X96 grid. I have folded it, and the grid is kind of weird in some parts… The square I started with was perfect… I don’t think a millimeter will make that much of a difference, but it kind of worries me… Any tips?

          • The temptation to use a raw edge as the measure of where the bisector between gridlines is the issue – you get “crease creep” if you do that as each fold changes the length of the paper a tiny amount which accumulates on dense grids. As painful as it is, reverse each crease and use crease to adjacent crease as the bisector – it takes longer but the grid is accurate up to ridiculous divisions

    • run a seam with MC perhaps – at the moment I am folding the model in 2 halves and will join them – unsure if I will attempt the whole model on one sheet – material handling that big is a nightmare

  1. Uriel

    PLEASE help on the collapse of the head base! I’m so confused, and I’m not really sure where either the neck connection or the neck twist coincide with the head…

    • it depends, if you just want to make the base, then 20×20 is probably fine, if you want to finish it I found I needed bigger paper (50x50cm)

  2. kene

    ive succesfully test folded the legs. Im asking, is the official CP at kamiya’s book reversed (especially the legs)? Thanks

      • pretty sure most crease patterns are showing the reverse side – kamiyas does I think. Due to the oddities of the head/body placement on the sheet, there is a necessary neck twist to orient the head facing forwards also which is all manner of fun (not)

  3. kene

    Wow thanks for posting the head bases. Now i collapsed it well! Going to try the necktwist and tails. Im looking fwd for your finished ryujin.

  4. Fabricio

    Hello Wonko!
    I was looking for photos to help me fold the ryuzin. I can fold the whole model already, just need to get better on some details. But i’m not very good at folding the head base. I usually start folding it by de nose, but when i reach the neck it always get a mess. Seeing your photos i tried fold the neck first, but i couldn’t reach that “late head base” and the rest of the head was messy to fold. Do you have some tips for this part? Thank you.

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